“When you arise in the morning, think of what a privilege it is to be alive - to breathe, to think, to enjoy, to love.” (Marcus Aurelius)
Last night to end the day, David promised us: “Tomorrow the views will be even more beautiful than today!“
Me and our cameraman Hieu, we exclaimed almost the same moment: „It’s not possible!“
In a way today we start our way back. We have passed our most faraway point on the map, almost touching the Chinese border, and almost reaching the places where only Black H’mong are able to reach. This evening we would rest our heads on the same pillows as two nights ago; we would have completed our Ha Giang loop. So in a way, we start our return.
But honestly, it doesn’t feel like one. Even if we spend a lot of time in the bus today, the route is new. We pass from Mèo Vạc through Du Già back to Hà Giang.
We have been informed: the views are even more spectacular | Ena Mets/Mr Linh's Adventures
The landscapes unfold not just in front of our eyes, but around us everywhere! With every passing second, with every passing turn. I thought I’d be so tired today from all the accumulated debt to the Sandman (the character bringing sleep), that I’d sleep through the entire bus journey. No chance!
I keep turning my head from one side of the bus to the other, following the valleys and mountains, villages and ruins of French colonial fortresses that appear and disappear, trying to stretch my neck like a giraffe or a stork, to see better, to grasp more. I try to breathe, but I’m constantly out of breath.
Silvia gazes at the landscape, mesmerized, and exclaims: "Uno spettacolo!" (What a spectacle!)
I wouldn't say the views are more beautiful than yesterday's, but I would say they last for hours. They last so long that the pleasure becomes almost unbearable. It's like holding my breath for hours. Until, at one moment, it brings me to tears.
Gratitude. Such a gratitude towards life. Life is so generous, so beautiful. How fortunate I am to experience all this. Gratitude to the world, to this landscape, to Vietnam, to David, to the group, to Duy, our driver. And how lucky I am that Life reminds me of its uniqueness so very often!
On the road to Du Gia | Ena Met/Mr Linh's Adventures
At the same time, Duy is driving through those landscapes on roads that are far from perfect, meeting trucks coming from the opposite direction on roads that hardly seem wide enough for both of us. Through unexpected potholes, through endless bends. What a responsibility! And he always smiles! How can it be?!
"We should never be afraid. You know, Ena, when the Americans came here to Vietnam and dropped so many bombs - so many bombs - we laughed. We didn't care. The more bombs they dropped, the more we laughed and sang. Because, you know, Ena, who will live and who will die depends on the One up there," says David, pointing towards the sky.
And then comes this little hidden pearl along our way, one that can only add to my gratitude for Life, though I have no idea yet by how much : Du Già Waterfall.
“So who would go to swim in the waterfall if I arrange you the towels? Believe me, David Long can arrange you anything you want,“ he said with a playful smile last night.
Water is not my favourite element on Earth, so let’s see.
Refreshing at Du Gia Waterfall | Giuseppe Lumetta
A few kilometres outside Du Già village, our home on wheels drops us off at exactly the best time of day - midday! To walk those almost two kilometres in the tropical summer sun is actually the best way to put a waterfall in the spotlight. By the time we reach its refreshing waters, I've become best friends with water. There is no more question of “who’d like to swim“! At least for many of us. This is like a gold medal at the end of a multi-day marathon. We just let the water wash away the heat and the fatigue.
But we also let it act as a fixing agent for all the encounters, emotions, incredible views, rice terraces and cornfields, and the bonds we have created within our group. And then, just the feeling of freedom and the feeling of Life in every cell of our bodies.
Some more hours of snaking roads, and we arrive for our last dinner in the countryside, in Thon Tha village, where we became one with the rice just three days ago.
“It’s hard to finish those long trips,“ tells David to me as if he told a secret. I look at him, puzzled. What does he mean? That he’s already too tired and would like to disappear?
“…well yes! So many days together! We are now like a family!“
Ms & Mr Cay in front of their Homestay | Ena Mets/Mr Linh's Adventures
It is only that evening that I learn why our host, Mr. Cay, is missing an arm. I didn’t dare to ask before. He had lost it in 1983 during the conflict with the invading Chinese army. He was very young at the time; barely 17-18! I look at this man and his beautiful wife with admiration. They have crossed mountains and ravines in their lives, but what kindness, what generosity!
And what beauty there is in these two human beings...
Text © Ena Mets - June 2026